Comments, ideas and constructive criticism always
welcomed. As with all of my postings, any archivist is
welcome to copy and distribute this story
appropriately without let or hindrance, provided that
the distribution is free of charge and the entire
posting remains intact and unedited.
*Disclaimer of a legal sort*
Striking the human body must be considered dangerous.
As I am neither a medical nor a legal professional,
the following is offered as my opinion only, not a
recommendation for any activity. Nothing can possibly
replace personal experience and learning directly from
those who have been there before. There are now
workshops and demonstrations available in larger
cities, avail yourself of one. I have no control over
the use of this information, use it at your own risk.
And as ever, proceed with caring.
WITH WHAT?-
A
'flogger' shall remain for the moment 'any flexible
many-tailed striking tool where the tails are simple
strips of leather or similar substances, designed for
use on the human body'. In short, not bullwhips,
braided cat-o-nines, crops, scourges, thudtoys and
such, simply floggers. A braided cat is similar to a
flogger in many respects, yet has a distinct 'feel',
both these and floggers with knotted ends are left for
another discussion.
As
floggers were less available in former days, many
people made their own in various styles and weights.
Even if you are not doing so, some basic principles of
design might help you select a superior one from the
regrettably large supply of the other sort. I shall
not include specific designs, the subject has been
done to death before, and they are readily available
elsewhere. As Janet Heartwood has provided excellent
information in her 'Heartwood Catalog', I have used a
similar format in my materials listing below. Although
I have not ordered from her and can give no opinion,
her wares seem well received among posters here.
Design
notes-
For any given force, the smaller the contact area that
force is concentrated in, the greater the potential
for damage. Think of a knife edge as the extreme case.
This is why quality flogger tails have rounded edges
and tips; although sharp edges require less work and
are less expensive, rounded edges are preferable.
The
wider the tail, the more surface area to be forced
through the air, and again, the more lands at once on
the skin. As a general rule for the same material,
thin tails 'sting', wide tails 'thud'. Thin, rounded
thong tails sting much more than 5/8 inch wide flat
tails, for example.
If all
things are equal, the more tails a flogger has, the
slower it travels, and the longer the tails are, the
more leverage is gained. Both of the above make a
flogger heavier, but the longer tails can make it
disproportionately more difficult to control,
therefore many of the 'standard' floggers have tail
lengths between 15 and 22 inches. It is possible to do
quite interesting things with a long flogger, such as
laying it down an entire back at once, but this is not
recommended for beginners as it can take serious
practise to do well. Very short floggers have special
uses for close work, one nipple at a time, that sort
of thing. Floggers with perhaps 15 to 25 tails are
average, twice that makes a heavier version of the
same design.
For
safety, flogger tails must remain fixed to the end of
the handle; this region is where the most stress
occurs in use. A good covering knot will help reduce
this strain, and keep the tails together. The handle
must work with your hand, not against it, neither too
large nor small for a proper grip, and a knot or
swelling near the end of the flogger serves to prevent
slippage. Short handles are better for control, longer
handles provide more leverage. The weight of the
handle must feel 'right' with the tails [something one
must feel, not read about. If the sellers will not
allow a cautious swing of prospective purchases, find
another shop].
Beyond
weight, width and length, the materials matter most. I
have personal experience only with the following,
perhaps others may share their knowledge as well. A
selection from the below provides a range of severity
and feelings from 'did you start yet?' to 'Omigod!'.
Again in general, the softer and lighter the material,
the safer it is [the harder/longer it may be used
without risk], and the softer it feels. As ever, *the
RESPONSIBLE TOP TESTS each implement on hirself before
it touches a bottom, and checks for breakage or other
safety problems before each use.*
Material List-
An ounce or two of loosely twisted cotton wool in a
pillowcase folded lengthwise- this and the next two
have been useful for those with no experience with
flogging, yet much interest. Quite safe, I originally
tested mine by repeated strikes to my own face with no
effect.
Chamois- a more
permanent version of the above, a 3/8 inch tail width
20-tail is a specialized tool for flogging either a
complete novice or one who prefers nearly no
sensation. Noise, a very light skin-level sensation,
and nothing else, tested as above. Of course it may
also cause hir to look back at you and ask if that is
all you plan on doing....
Fabric- silk and other
softer fabrics can be made into floggers. Avoid
fraying of edges by sewing the fabric into closed
tubes, ironing each tube flat, then sewing the flat
sides together along the long axis. Similar to
chamois, more decorative colors available, and many
fabrics are washable.
Deerskin- soft and
caressing, a tiny bit of sting, a bit of thud, and
little else. Unless one is hitting exceptionally hard,
a deerskin flogger can be used for a very long time
without any notable skin reactions beyond a light
flush. My personal favorite for light play or the less
experienced.
Light Nylon Cordage
[1/8 inch diameter for a start]- Take 15 loops 34
inches long [circumference], tying them together in a
knot at one end. Cut the other end [tail length now
perhaps 15 inches], fray the cut ends and attach to a
handle. Two sensations, a very light one from brushing
with the tips alone, and a heavier one from the
non-frayed section. Simple to clean, quite
inexpensive, and different weights of cord are readily
available.
Elkhide- heavier
than Deerskin, yet soft and compressible, almost
entirely thud. A lovely flogger for a slow building
scene, very easy to relax into, and can be used with
astonishing force with little risk of harm.
The next three are
varieties of cowhide, the 'standard' leather. These
are not specific cuts or tanning terms, but are
classes of weight and type.
Suede- in the lighter
varieties, slightly harder than Elk, in the heaviest,
just below the thick Topgrain below. Many floggers are
made from various suede 'splits', these are
inexpensive and simple to work. More thud and more
sting than those above, may mark if swung sharply.
Topgrain leather-
smooth leathers create less friction than suedes, yet
usually feel more 'sting-y' on the skin. Available in
many weights, from light garment leathers to heavy
saddle leathers, the more flexible varieties are
recommended.
Oil tanned thick
leather- thick, heavy, and spongy leather, less
flexible than thinner skins. Feels rather like an
extremely heavy Elk as it compresses, yet a far more
'serious' thud.
Bison- Interesting
rough grain, heavy, rather inflexible, unless careful
attention is taken the edges may cut the skin. Not a
material for the beginner, but certainly something to
use if desired.
Rubber- flexible, yet
quite 'harsh' feeling, stings rather like a thong
flogger, leaves immediate marks. Different weight to
air resistance ratio than any leather I am aware of.
Exceptionally simple to clean.
Horsehair- Extreme
sting with no thud, entirely skin-level sensation of a
very intense and itching sort. It is possible to break
skin with horsehair, and it creates deceptively
intense stinging at a very light touch. Cleanliness
and body fluid precautions are required here, IMO.
Additionally, most of these have tactile and scent
qualities that may attract some, with the exception of
the pillowcase, fabric, nylon, and the oil-tanned
leather [much of which smells rather nasty]. All
except the pillowcase may be made into floggers that
look rather nice, and all of the above are now
available ready-made through shops and catalogues.
Technique-
Much has been discussed, experienced, debated, and
counter-debated here and elsewhere on this personal
topic, but as this is intended as a generic suggestion
for the beginner, perhaps there is a possibility we
might avoid the usual flamewar-of-the-moment? Of
course it would be wonderful if others would add their
own ideas to this basic outline [subtle hint].
WHERE?
Where
to flog? Where not?-
As
'flogging' is something that covers much by way of
different activities, I have taken the liberty of
separating it into 'light' [entirely sting, no deep
tissue effects], and 'heavy' [sting and/or thud,
reaching and jarring deep tissue]. *Hint* it is
impossible to do 'heavy' flogging with a 20-tail
chamois flogger, and quite difficult to do 'light'
flogging with anything over deerskin in the materials
progression cited above [with the exception of
horsehair, again a sting-only material].
Of
course all of these are merely physical
*possibilities* rated solely on my own opinions of
[relative] safety, all limits and preferences of top
and bottom must also be considered.
Where
not to flog *under any circumstances* [obvious safety
reasons]-
The face, head, neck, the fingers and toes, over
healing skin [if you want it to ever heal].
Where
to flog *extremely* lightly and carefully if at all
[Really a gentle brushing motion rather than a
striking one, tips of a *light* stinging instrument
only, such as the chamois or horsehair above]-
The palms and back of the hands, over any joint, the
lower front and back and sides between the top of the
pelvis and the lower ribs [kidneys and other internal
organs], the spine, the tops and bottoms of the feet.
N.B.
Both feet and hands contain many tiny bones, once
broken, these rarely heal well. Joints do not respond
well to stress internal or external. Crippling is
neither safe nor sane, and unless one has an X-ray
machine at call one cannot tell. Internal organs are
more fragile than one might think, avoid thud entirely
in their area. Many people have particular problems
with body areas as well, do attempt the above *very*
lightly indeed if at all!
Where
to flog lightly-
Lower legs, arms, inner arms, breasts, genitals [skin
is more fragile there], upper shoulders [accuracy],
top of buttocks near spine, the muscular ridge on both
sides of the spine [accuracy], the ribs where not
protected by muscle.
N.B.
There is some evidence that 'thud' on the female
breast is not advisable for reasons of health, nipples
are far better suited to strong stimulation. The top
of the buttocks protect the coccyx, a small and
fragile triangular bone at the base of the spine,
avoid striking between the upper buttocks.
Where
to flog 'heavily'-
Buttocks, upper back on each side of the spine,
thighs, lower shoulders. These areas are principally
composed of strong bones protected by muscle tissue
and a fatty layer, any other organs present are
reasonably protected. There are reasons for these
traditional areas being so traditional, they reduce
the likelihood of major damage, making an extended
safer session possible.
Position considerations-
Body position affects the position of both skin and
muscles. If someone is bent over, the muscles of the
rear lengthen and are not as thick, so the muscles
themselves no longer protect in the same way. If the
skin is stretched as well, it will feel more than it
would if relaxed. Flogging someone who is standing
unsupported may lead to falling, and seems foolish
given the known physiological and psychological
effects ['going away']. Standing bondage changes
without warning to partial suspension if someone
faints, plan for that possibility.
HOW?-
Technique repertoire-
The more ways one knows to do an action, the more
effects may be created, and the less one's arm aches
afterwards. Varying the motions has a good effect for
top and bottom. Practise the following until you can
do them from various directions and speeds, they all
feel and work differently. Knowing the techniques is
only one part, knowing which to use and when is beyond
my ability to suggest in a post.
Swinging styles-
I know of four basic ways to end a stroke of any
force:
[1] The tails land 'flat', with all of the force
hitting at once [the tails either bounce off or drop
almost vertically after this].
[2] The tails swing
'through', with the some part of the tips hitting and
moving past the target area. From there, you may stop
them [see 'Accuracy-' below], or use some elliptical
pattern to bring them round again, such as vertical or
horizontal figure-8, circle, and the like.
[2a] The tail tips
strike, go past, then immediately return via
a swift spinning motion. If fast enough, this can seem
continuous and the light, sharp touch has some
sensational
advantages.
[3] The tails are
snapped or 'whipped' for a smaller point of
stimulation that is more discrete and feels 'sharper'.
[4] The tails land all
at once on the body in a strongly forward motion
resembling a punch or push more than a swing.
Difficult to describe, and not as common, a hard thud
stroke.
Each of
these and all their variations may be primarily
accomplished by wrist motion alone, or with arm and
wrist moving together, this depends on your strength
and the effect you seek. A properly balanced flogger
requires less effort, and may be used for a longer
time with less fatigue.
Skill-
I would like to add my voice to [I believe] Mauser's
previous post on this, bad technique is simply
inexcusable; although we are all fallible, misplacing
a stroke is not something to be taken lightly. There
is indeed an art to the physical act of flogging. This
may be learned as any other physical art, by
observation, thought, and practise.
Practise in the air will teach you the balance of a
flogger, but there is no substitute for actual impact.
I believe it was STella who suggested a velvet pillow,
and another person suggested suspending it in a way
that allowed for movement. This works nicely, a safe
and useful simulation.
If you
rarely find velvet pillows strewn about, a towel
wrapped round a pillow will serve the same purpose,
you will see the path of the flogger tails quite
nicely in the nap of the fabric. When you are able to
land all the tails in one area on the pillow, practise
moving that aiming point about until you know exactly
where it will land each time. Now practise varying the
speed, pace and strength of the blows without
sacrificing that accuracy. When you have that in
balance, try these variations on your own leg, get the
feel of that specific instrument, *then* consider
using it on the willing form of another.
Accuracy-
A flogger [as opposed to a crop or whip] 'flops around
more', it naturally covers a wider area and is more
difficult to control. If one avoids any spin on the
handle, the first stroke may be accurate with the
tails close together. Unfortunately the next ones tend
to be less so unless some care is taken with the tails
between strokes. The tails may be caught in the free
hand between strokes, allowed to wrap gently on the
top's torso or leg to gather them together, or hang
straight down between strokes. Any of these options
will make the next stroke more accurate as the tails
will at least start together. It is possible to stop
them in mid-air as well, but more difficult to cause
them to swing together. With practise, a well-made
flogger that is 2 inches in diameter with the tails
gathered together may be precisely placed within a 3
to 4 inch target path.
As a
suggestion for beginners, start with the bottom
reclining face down and the top kneeling or standing
a-straddle, thus allowing gravity to assist in the
guidance of the tails.
Swinging at a body part that protrudes ensures
accuracy. The buttocks of a standing bottom whose
entire front is pressed against a rigid support are a
classic example of this, a straight side-to-side swing
with the tips of a flogger can strike only the
intended area, leaving the lower back and upper thighs
untouched. Costuming may help as well, certain corsets
may provide some protection for the kidneys, and may
act as a sort of armor against mishap.
Wrapping-
If the middle section of tails strikes first on a
rounded 'edge' of the body, and the tips 'wrap'
following the curve, the tips actually accelerate far
more than the original swing [physics, try it on
something inanimate and see]. This is 'wraparound',
and is usually a bad thing, causing inadvertent hard
blows to areas one did not intend to touch at all, or
ruining the controlled stroke one did intend. Keeping
the flogger handle the same distance away from the
skin as you did in practise will help here, as will
being very careful to plan where the tips will fall at
each stroke, avoiding curved edges to wrap around.
Being
'tip conscious' is the best way to avoid wraparound,
but placing a pillow to protect the side of a
reclining bottom works as a temporary solution for
those who have this problem [works neatly with
'whippy' canes and crops as well].
IN SCENE-
How
often?-
An average of one stroke every few seconds often
proves best, with the exception of the spinning
technique above, a fast version of which will seem
constant. This 'blow-rest-blow' allows processing time
to feel each sensation, and this rhythm once
established may easily be changed for effect. No doubt
some people will differ with me on this, but I
maintain that it is a suitable pace to maintain in
many cases. Increased speed near the end is also
popular, and pacing oneself early on will allow for
that.
Scene
Structure-
Different people seek to give and receive different
experiences. I offer two quite diverse scenarios to
begin the discussion, perhaps others might volunteer
their own favorite experiences or methods.
The
slowly building endorphin encouragement-
Start slowly and lightly, begin by placing the flogger
on the skin, holding the tail tips in one hand and the
handle in the other, moving slowly to and fro on the
skin. Then a slow caress with the tips for a bit,
using more and more of the tails in a soft motion,
building the movement into a partial swing, then a
full swing. Vary placement gradually, work up and down
the body in a methodical pattern with few surprises.
When changing to a 'harder' flogger, repeat the above
'accustomization' process in minature, the ideal being
that although the actual force applied increases
markedly, the 'feeling' remains much the same,
matching the growing ability of the bottom to enjoy
the increasing sensations. In a person looking for
this, it is often possible to cause a 'flying'
sensation of complete relaxation, buoyed by trust and
natural reactions of the body to slowly increasing
stimulation, with little or no feeling of actual
'pain'.
The
overwhelming sensation-
More of a 'hard' style than the above, to take a
bottom past the 'comfortable' area into one more
likely to push hir strongly. Useful for 'sensation
overload' and for those who seek a more 'painful'
feeling. Beginning as above, vary the speed and
intensity of the blows much more, pushing more, being
less predictable. Work upper body and lower at
seemingly random times, not allowing the bottom to
grow used to the sensation before moving on. When
changing instruments, do so with less subtlety, let
hir feel the change as an increase in intensity.
Should sie enjoy both sting and thud, use these
interchangeably as well, surprise is often more
effective than merely increasing the power of blows.
Emotional and other considerations [IMO]-
A few suggestions in this admittedly most subjective
area. A flogging of even the gentlest sort may have
exceptionally strong effects on both participants;
leaving time and energy to 'wind down' at the end of
the session is, in my view, a requirement.
Reassurance, a caress, or a simple touch during the
flogging may do wonders also. Do not expect verbal
responses if the flogging takes the bottom into new
areas, sie may not be possible to speak readily, and
it may be that sie will not be hearing well either. I
find that flogging the front of the body, use of ear
plugs and blindfolds, stringent bondage to open up
delicate body areas, and making the bottom look at
hirself being flogged all are more 'serious' and have
more emotional impact than a 'simple' flogging.
Bruises may appear immediately, not appear at all, or
suddenly appear after as much as a day or two,
depending on the body concerned, and most people have
some reaction to such marks, whether positive or not.
Philosophy-
Flogging can be a powerful and loving act, top and
bottom not separated by the flogger, but connected
through it. While basic competence and sensitivity
will increase the chances of this, caring does help a
bit too.
*All rights to "Grim's Flogging FAQ" are reserved by
the author.
